Pressing the Melon Seam Allowance: FREEZER PAPER METHOD

Using a craft iron on the highest setting, begin at the right side halfway point and work your way around the melon (orange peel). I actually prefer to use a regular iron for this size and shape. The craft iron is helpful for tiny pieces but definitely not worth the time and cost for this particular size/shape. The end results are no better than the standard iron and usually requires more time.

Using the standard iron, begin on the center right, carefully working your way around the shape counterclockwise. Longer fingernails come in handy here. If you are nervous about getting too close to the iron or are not blessed with longer nails, you can help to stabilize your shape by putting several pins straight down into your ironing board. Be sure not to place pins too close to the tips and seam allowance to avoid melting plastic on your iron.

Some of you may have heard that starch is helpful in keeping the seams in place. However, if you are using freezer paper and starch (or glue/glue stick), your shape will become warped and it may be more difficult to remove the freezer paper. It is an extra step that I find unnecessary and messy but you're free to do whatever you'd like.

When you complete the pressing of several melons, you're ready to begin hand sewing. If you are concerned about centering your melons, press the charm square base in half. Open the charm back up and fold and press in the opposite direction. Be careful if you plan to use directional fabrics (has a definite up and down and/or side to side pattern) for any projects, you'll have a little more planning to do at this point. 

Make sure to avoid the seam allowance 1/4 inch on the background charm fabric. It's good practice for your projects. You'll want to pin your shapes to your background fabrics. There are applique specific pins but they aren't necessary if you don't mind snagging a thread every once in a while as you work. I normally use piecing pins on large shapes (see pink cupcake melon below). 

Next, gather your needles and thread. For this level of sewing, using whatever you have on hand will work perfectly. Should you purchase nice fabrics for later, you may want to consider matching thread to your focus fabric (though I have also matched background fabrics before). If you're an advanced hand sewist, you may want to consider using a silk thread eventually. I use YLI for good projects and I match to the background fabric in those cases to avoid having to purchase several spools in lots of different colors.

Those of you accustomed to using beeswax thread for quilting, that thickens the thread and makes it easily viewable. I'll be demonstrating with some just so you can follow along but I do not recommend using bees wax for any applique. I'll be using considerably darker or lighter thread on pieces so each step is viewable. Most people cannot see my applique stitches if the thread matches either the focus or background fabrics. I naturally sew tiny itty bitty stitches. I'll work on making larger stitches to help make viewing a bit better. Please let me know if you're having difficulties seeing anything at any point.

As far as needles are concerned, I tend to use a 10 or 11 sharp or between. They're small needles with tiny eyes. I do not have a preferred brand yet but will be trying a new (to me) product soon and will let you know what I think. If you're using a different standard needle for these practice sessions, please know you'll definitely be able to see those stitches but they should appear smaller when you switch over to applique specific needles. Your stitches will also most likely be farther apart until they're replaced.

Happy Applique!

Heather

COMING SOON: stitching your applique melons, curves and pointy points